Albania has long stood at the crossroads of empires, cultures, and religions. Nestled in the heart of the Balkans, its territory has been home to a rich mosaic of civilizations — from the Roman and Byzantine Empires to the Slavic migrations, and perhaps most influentially, over four centuries under Ottoman rule. This complex cultural tapestry has shaped a unique Albanian identity, characterized by a remarkable spirit of adaptability and religious tolerance.
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| Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (1689–1762) |
One of the most vivid and early Western depictions of this Albanian pluralism comes from Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, an English aristocrat and writer, whose letters from the Ottoman Empire offer invaluable insight into life in the East in the early 18th century. In a letter dated April 1, 1717, written during her stay in Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul), Montagu recounts her encounter with a group of Albanian soldiers, whom she refers to as Arnaouts — an Ottoman-era term for Albanians.
Soldiers of the Sultan, Free in Spirit
Montagu describes the Albanians as the finest infantry in the Ottoman Empire, known for their bravery, discipline, and self-reliance. These soldiers, she notes, paid for their own arms and attire — typically robust young men dressed in thick white garments, carrying impressively long weapons slung casually over their shoulders. She was struck not only by their physical presence but by their spirited culture; they would march under the melodic singing of their leader, joined in chorus by the rest.
These men hailed from what she calls “Arnaoutlich,” an old term for Albania and parts of historic Macedonia — regions where the rugged landscape and warrior tradition shaped resilient communities. Though the name of the ancient Macedonians had faded, Montagu remarks that the courage and constancy remained alive in the Albanians she met.
Dual Faith, Singular Wisdom
Yet what impressed Lady Montagu most was not their martial prowess, but their unusual approach to religion. Living between the Christian and Muslim worlds, these Albanians refused to pick a side in a theological debate they felt unqualified to judge. Instead, with what she calls a "modest opinion of their own ability," they practiced both faiths. Every Friday, they attended mosque. On Sundays, they went to church.
Their reasoning was simple yet profound: by honoring both religions, they hoped to remain in the favor of whichever prophet turned out to be true on Judgment Day. “They are sure of the protection of the true prophet,” they explained, “but are unable to determine who he is in this world.”
Montagu, with a mixture of admiration and amusement, saw this as a clever, pragmatic solution — a form of spiritual insurance rooted not in cynicism, but in humility and coexistence.
A Mirror of Albania's Soul
This account from 1717 serves as an early testimony to the religious and cultural fluidity that has long characterized Albanian society. In a land where East met West, and where minarets rose beside bell towers, the people often found ways to navigate — and even embrace — these overlapping identities.
Even today, Albania stands out for its religious harmony. Muslims, Orthodox Christians, and Catholics live side by side, often celebrating each other’s holidays, and interfaith families are not uncommon. The story Lady Montagu tells — of Albanians who sought spiritual unity rather than division — is more than a historical curiosity. It is, in many ways, a reflection of a national ethos that continues to define Albania’s place in the world.
Sources:
Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, Letters from Turkey (1716–1718)
Translated and prepared by Robert Elsie
This letter from the past reminds us that in a world too often fractured by religious and cultural lines, Albania has long offered a different kind of example — one where identities intersect, and tolerance, rather than dogma, often guides the way.